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QUILT PREP Quilt Prep
Plan ahead


  • If you have pets, please remove as much pet hair from your quilt as possible
  • Quilt top, backing and batting need to be separated.  Do not pin or baste layers together.
  • Remove all pins from quilt top and backing.  If stitched over, these could, at the least, throw my machine out of timing or break the bobbin race.
  • Quilt top and backing need to be well pressed.  There will be a charge if I have to press them.
  • If your quilt has a pieced outer border, stay-stitch ¼” from the outside edge to stabilize it.  This will help prevent stretching or seams coming unstitched during quilting.
  • Clip off loose threads from the front and back of the quilt top and backing.  These threads could show through the top and are difficult to remove after quilting.
  • Backing and batting should be at least 8” longer and 8” wider than the quilt top.  This allows for attaching to the quilting machine.  For example if the top is 60” x 80” the backing should be at least 68” x 88”.
  • Quilt top, backing and batting edges need to be square and even.  I can’t load it on the machine if it isn’t.  There will be a charge for me to square up your backing or batting.
  • Mark the top of the quilt with a safety pin or tag if it makes a difference as to which end is the top of the quilt.
  • Leave embellishments (beads, buttons, yo-yo’s, etc.) off until after the quilt is quilted.
  • Sheets are unacceptable for backing.  They are woven much tighter than quilting fabrics and are hard to sew through.  They affect the stitch tension on the machine.  I cannot guarantee there won’t be any “pokies” or loops on the back because of tension problems on sheets for backings.
  • Fleece, Minkee and flannel are acceptable backings.  Fleece and Minkee backing really show off the quilting, but have a nap that has to be taken into consideration when piecing the backing.  Flannel should be washed and dried before being pieced into a backing.  Sew with a ¾” seam on selvage edges then trim selvages off and press seams open.
  • Send 1 yard of binding fabric if Icy Swan is making and attaching the binding.  Any leftover fabric will be returned to you with the quilt.
  • Please contact me by email or phone before you send your quilt so I know to be on the lookout for it.  I will let you know when it arrives.
  • Print out the Order form, fill out the top section and quilting design (if you know what you want) and send the form with the quilt.
  • Total balance must be paid upon completion and prior to shipping or pick-up. Payments can be made by cash, personal check and credit card in person or with online invoicing through PayPal. Shipping charges will be exact cost for mailing USPS Priority mail with $200 insurance.
  • If the quilt top does not lay flat or is not square there may be puckers or tucks.  I cannot “quilt out” excess fullness.
  • The most common reason for tops that are not square is borders that are put on incorrectly.  Borders that are put on incorrectly have what I call “Beauty queen borders”; they wave and wave and wave.  To prevent these BQB’s...
 
  1. Measure the length of your quilt in 3 places (the middle, and half the distance to either edge)
  2. Average these 3 measurements.
  3. Cut 2 border pieces this length, preferably lengthwise from your fabric.
  4. Mark mid-point and quarter points of quilt top and border with pins.
  5. Match pins in border and quilt top.  Ease in any fullness evenly between the pins.  Do not stretch border to fit top.  Stitch border to quilt top with the “baggy” side next to the feed dogs on the machine as they will help ease in the fullness.
  6. Repeat steps for the width of the quilt.
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